The importance of a shinning shoe

Have you ever thought that your reputation could depend on how well you polish your shoes? In fact, not only how well you polish them but how well you keep them shinning.

You might think that reputation would be easy to build but not in Uganda. In a country where most of the roads are not paved, where dust invades every inch of your life and lungs, where people dress formally and wear leather shoes, reputation was never harder to keep.

Believe it or not, I have never seen so many shinning shoes as here. Peter, the receptionist at the University Inn, is an extreme example of a proud Ugandan: impeccable ironed slacks, white shirt, blazer… and immaculate shinning shoes. I asked Peter how is it possible to keep those shoes shinning all the time. ‘You have to walk carefully, over the dust.’ Over the dust? I can only walk through the dust.

Ever since we talked I try to watch him walking around. Maybe I am dreaming but whenever I see Peter walking I can swear he is moving a few inches above the ground. Over the dust, like he says. No wonder he keeps his shoes shinning.

Time in Uganda

Time is relative, and I’m not talking about Einstein’s general relativity. I’m talking about cultural relativity. One hour for me is not one hour for an American and it is not one hour for a Ugandan. It’s hard to understand this concept but it’s one of primary importance whenever you’re dealing cross-culturally.

Ugandans say that here you should not go to a restaurant when you are hungry, you should go at least 1h before you think you will be hungry. Any nutritionist in the US would probably tell you the same but here it has a different meaning. It means it takes at least 1h to order food to the table. If everyone is fine with that, why shouldn’t I? Furthermore, they even warn you so no complaints.

A meeting time does not mean that people will be on time for the meeting. It is a suggestion; you know you should show up around that time, maybe half an hour later, maybe more, maybe less. If you are early, you drink a cup of coffee or tea and wait. Why should you hurry if no one does?

This logic is repeated again and again in different contexts and situations. Time is relative, so why worry?

Disrespecting local timing is rude because you are assuming that everyone thinks like you, that you are the center of the world, the one who dictates the rules. When we came to Uganda we were repeatedly told that time in Uganda does not mean the same as in the US. Everyone repeated the warning again and again. Nonetheless, those warnings often seem to be left where they were given, a few thousand miles away.

Have you ever thought why should that report be delivered on Monday and not on Tuesday? I’m not asking who gave you that deadline; I’m asking why was that deadline set? Why is half an hour a reasonable time to order food and not one hour? Why should someone be ready to give me what I ask for when I ask for? Why should I be angry whenever someone does not understand my time? Shouldn’t they be angry with my anger?

Food in Uganda

Food options in Mbarara are reduced to chicken or fish, they say it’s tilapia but it doesn’t taste like tilapia. Or at least not like the South American tilapia, the only I had before I came here. They catch it in local lakes, including Lake Victoria, and that might explain the difference in taste.

Chickens here are extremely skinny, so skinny that stews look more like bone stews and when fried you get more fried flour than actual meat. But they are tasty. As far as I could see, fish or meat are luxuries than not everyone can afford. We always pay a premium for chicken or fish so most locals eat rice, potatoes, matóke, chapatti and avocato. Avocatos are abundant and grow everywhere, almost like a weed they say, which is great for them since it’s such a caloric fruit.

It’s hard to find anything other than fried chicken, fried fish, chicken stew, or fish stew. The goat meat barbeque was an exception but goat is a more expensive meat. Well, we always have the option of going to the upscale hotels and eat western-like food.

Chicken stew

Fish stew

But the local food is the real experience. One of the most popular dishes is Matóke, mashed green bananas fried in a sort of thick patty shape. The matóke can also be served in the regular banana shape, in that case they just fry or grill the banana. The matóke is not very tasteful but with some sauce it’s a great side. We had it with a tomato and onion salad or with stew and it’s great. Matóke is so popular because bananas are abundant here. So abundant that they pick them either green for the matóke or ripe for desserts. Everyday we can see several trucks fully loaded with bananas, I still didn’t have the chance to shoot one but as soon as I do it I’ll post the picture.

A couple of days ago, at the university canteen, we had Biñeuá. I don’t know how to spell it but it’s how it sounds in Runyankore, the most popular language in Mbarara. Biñeuá is a stew made with a sort of local aubergine. It’s the perfect partner for matóke and they eat it as a sauce since it’s so rich.

Another popular side is chapatti, a corn-made sort of tortilla or crepe, thicker than Mexican tortillas and also tastier. They dip it in the stew or Biñeuá and it makes a great side.

Matóke on the left, Chapatti on the right

Hopefully there’s more to come about local food. I’ll keep looking for something other than chicken and fish.

Cultural clash?

You know you’re in a totally different world when you hear radio commercials like this.

Three women talking:
W1 – I don’t know what to do. I just got tested HIV positive.
W2 – Don’t panic, you should go to a doctor and start medication right away. I was tested HIV positive a few years ago and my doctor is optimistic.
W3 – However you should have been tested earlier. I was tested HIV positive very early and my doctor said that was crucial to save my life
W2 – Yes, being afraid of HIV is not a solution. Visit your nearest clinic and get tested. Early diagnosis can save your life.

Later when we got to Mbarara we saw these two gigantic banners by the side of the road.

Ugandans don’t bullshit, the message has to pass whatever it takes.

Day 0 in Uganda

After missing the first try to land, I finally arrive at Entebbe, the international airport in Uganda. Leaving the airport is easy, $50 for the visa, no questions made, 10 minutes waiting for the luggage, I wave the customs officer as I walk towards the door and I’m officially in Uganda. A quick look around and I see my name written in a small piece of paper, I’m glad I put my glasses on. Messiah, not The Messiah I suppose, is going to drive me to Kampala, a 45-minute ride on a pretty decent road.

The drive at night is a unique experience. The lanes very lightly marked on the road are a suggestion, not a rule. Very few accept the suggestion so you can easily see 4 or even 5 cars running side by side in two rather narrow lanes. The experience is somehow like Space Invaders. The computer game remember? Imagine you’re at the bottom looking up at the spacecrafts. You see 5 pairs of lights flashing at you, going left and right with no apparent pattern, and you have to find your way through trying to avoid the lights. Messiah is particularly good at it, which I appreciate.

During the ride I get to know a few things about Uganda. Although most people’s names are biblical they don’t care shit about religion. Gas prices are pretty high, around $2 the liter, because the government imposes gas shortages to collect more taxes. Nightlife in Kampala is a paradise for girls, they have campus nights on Tuesdays and Fridays when students go out and girls don’t pay, they have ladies night on Thursdays, Sundays and most Saturdays when girls don’t pay, so as long as girls stay at home on Mondays and Wednesdays they can get hammered pretty cheap. I also learned that the land is fertile but since the price of commodities went down, people do subsistence agriculture.

Arriving to Kampala is not remarkable. A bunch of tall buildings, some lights, a casino, a few gatherings, nothing more. The hotel is fine, maybe too expensive for what if offers but it’s clean and has no bugs. I’m exhausted and I fall asleep before I can even think about it.